Sunday, November 9, 2008

Great Ocean Road

Ok this is going to be a long one…… hope you have the time…..

As many of you know I greatly enjoy the camping and hiking in any national park. So this trip out the Great Ocean Road has been a highly anticipated event. These are my first real days off since arriving. The couple days before I started work don’t really count as I was fumbling around with the most basic of life’s necessities. Like how to change the lint trap in the dryer and how to turn on the vent above the stove. Not to mention the efforts it took to find the simplest things like a post office, liquor store and a grocery store. The one day I took on Wednesday October 8th doesn’t count either because I spent the day moving, which was a good day just not a day off!

A 4 day weekend! and a chance to see the countryside on my own. As stated in my last blog, Saturday Nov 1st was spent getting and loading up the car. Since I skipped the after hours party most of my band mates went to I was able to rise early and hit the road by 9am. I navigated my way out of the city and on to the Western Highway (M1) by going over the Westgate Bridge. The next couple hours were spent speeding down the highway. In Australia, mostly that means a 2 lane, each way, separated travel way. But the farther you get from a big metropolis the more basic the “highway” becomes until it’s just a 1 lane in each direction road with occasional passing lanes. I passed through mid size and small towns such as Geelong, Wye River and Skenes Creek. All very cute little coastal towns much like many you’d see in America. My first stop was Point Addis north of Lorne. This is where the Great Otway National Park begins and it stretches along the coast 100 kilometres from Geelong to west of Apollo Bay. The national parks in this stretch of the coast are all small in comparison to the US counterparts. But they do not lack beauty at all. Point Addis is a lovely little peninsula with a bay and nice sandy beach. It was a great start to my journey. I stopped in a couple information spots along the way looking for details on the Glow worm hikes I had heard about during my research for this trip. I was told there are 2 places to see them and attempted to find a camping place near one of these locations.

After much driving, stopping to check the view, lunch, reading the map again. I came to a campground named Blanket Bay, 7km down a dirt road just east of the Otway lighthouse, situated almost right on the beach. It was about 2pm on a long weekend, so I figured the sooner I find a place to camp the better. This particular campground didn’t allow fires and had no showers, but there was a toilet and the beach was a 1 minute walk from my spot. Once my tent was set up I headed down to the beach for a look see. The beach area itself wasn’t huge, but a nice size for short walks and listening to the surf. In places the ocean came right up to rocks which quickly turned into the hill side and dunes. Some areas of the beach had sand that flowed into the sand cliffs that are much more common in this area. I headed off in the direction away from most people. The afternoon had turned a grey with a passing drizzling shower every so often. Nothing to stop an Oregonian from his adventures. I found a nice large rock to climb up on and view the horizon from. This area had a large rock shelf that led out to the sea. Along the cliff face was the rounded nooks created by the tides ever changing erosion. Here I found a GREAT spot for a self portrait and set the timer on my camera. I spent an hour or more here exploring the tidal pools, snapping photos, and contemplating the bigger meanings of life. I had more plans to accomplish on this day so I headed back to the car and went off searching for hiking trails. Driving back the dirt road I started to see some of the locals. A Koala bear crossing the road, A Kangaroo hopping along, rabbits (a lot more than you’d think) and of course the birds. There are many large varieties and all of them are loud! After about 30 km I found something I just couldn’t pass up without taking a picture. Here a photo is worth 1000 words. “TK” is an abbreviation for track. Most of the back roads are considered tracks. This is barely what I would call a road to begin with. Dirt and gravel defines the tire lanes while the middle part of the road is covered with tall grass and other vegetation. A short distance later I found my first hike of the afternoon, a very short trail to a stand of California Redwoods planted in 1938. This really wasn’t much more than a grove of trees in a picnic area. There are about 200 trees neatly laid out in rows along a creek. Someone had recently planted more Redwood saplings in an effort to reclaim a grass area for the forest. Reforestation is a nice concept to see here, even if it’s with a non native species. More forest land is a good thing! A little farther down the gravel road and I found a hike slightly more worthy of throwing on a backpack. The Hopetoun Falls Hike was a just over a 1km each way and in total rain forest. This trek took me past the giant tree ferns, eucalyptus and gum trees along a stream. A very beautiful trail that comes out to be a spectacular waterfall. (Ok it’s my first one and after 17 years in the PNW you just can’t get enough waterfalls) Another good moment to reflect and take in the beauty that Mother Nature has created. it was getting late in the day and I was still hoping to see these glow worms. A few kilometres back down the road and I got to Maits Rest Rain forest Walk. It was about 7pm and sunset is after 8pm. So I thought I’d make the trek around the loop trail and kill a little time waiting for sunset. As it turns out a leisurely walk only took me about 30 minutes and I was back at the car. Along came a ranger and I asked about the worms. He told me that now was not a good time for the glow worms and if I’d see them at all it probably wouldn’t be until well after dark. So I decided to change the plan and head back to camp for some evening cocktails and dinner.

There were still a lot of clouds and the occasional drizzle. Some time after sunset I took my large, very full plastic cup of vodka and walked down to the beach. It was totally dark. Not just the dark you get in a city where things are in shadows but a complete dark with only a sliver for the moon.Which is hidden by the clouds most of the time anyway. It took a few minutes for my eyes to adjust as I walked away from the light of the other campers. But once down on the beach you could tell the tide had come in and I could see the white tops of crashing waves. I found my way back to the rock outcropping and stood with my face into the wind and sea. To stand on the edge of a continent in the total darkness, just listening to the waves all around you makes you lose all sense of time and the concerns of daily life. I’m not sure how long I stayed there. My legs got tired so I sat for a while. Then the right cheek was sore so I swapped to the left one. I could tell the moon had risen quite a bit, but I didn’t want this experience to end. However, time does continue on whether you want it to or not. So I had to make my way back to camp.

I had earlier decided to sleep in the car. Being as my tent leaked a little and the weather man was predicting thunderstorms. Not long after getting into my sleepwear, placing all the pillows correctly to minimize hard car parts not meant for sleeping on, the predicted thunderstorms arrived. Now these are more than what I was used to in Oregon. But far from the worst I have ever experienced. The rain did come down fairly solid for more than an hour. I know because it was kind of hard to sleep with the crashing thunder and sparks of flashing lights. Eventually, I did fall asleep and enjoyed what only other campers will understand as a night of car camping sleep. To make matters more fun the Saab couldn’t run CPAP machine on all night so that compounded it to a night of 30 minutes of sleep at a time. Roll over and sleep for another 30 minutes.

Just before 6am I heard something climb up on to the roof of the car. Now whatever this creature was it just woke up a sleeping bear. All the crazy thoughts run through your mind in a moment like this. Is it dangerous? Should I open the door? Am I now trapped in the car? What seemed like an hour was only a minute or so. My mind racing to far off wild places! All of a sudden the creature runs down the windshield across the gravel roadway, up on to the car in the next campsite. Now I’ve gotten a look at it. Not a good one, but a look. It’s still pretty dark outside as the clouds are masking the sun that has surely risen. I peer though the windshield and the raindrops on it to be able to discern that the ravenous create terrorizing the campground is a large cat like animal. Too small to be a Dingo I thought, Tasmanian tigers have been extinct for 70 years and you’re not in Tasmania Brian! Ok so what can it be? I open to door to try to get a better look and maybe snap a picture. Wearing just socks on my feet and still not a clear idea if the thing will eat me alive I’m not quite ready to actually step out of the car. So I peer around the door and snap my photo. What ever it is, the eyes glow red in the picture. I can see it has a bushy tail with some dark colour at the end. As I try to snap a better picture it runs off into the woods. Now I’m awake and of course I have to go pee. I throw on some jeans and shoes. Grab my camera and head out in search of the always lovely, fresh smelling and clean camp toilet! Not on the list of things to experience first in the morning but it had to be done. From there I decide to head back down to the beach. A place I’ve had lovely time at twice already and a dawn view of the ocean must be good. As I walk down the 4x4 road I hear something in the brush, as I turn to look I get a glimpse of a creature running across the road. GREAT! I think now this man eating ferocious animal is following me! I turn back and it darts across the road about 6’ in front of me. This time I can see it looks like a fox. I didn’t realize Australia had foxes. They’re not the normal marsupial, deadly reptile or spider you hear so much about when travelling down under. But I’m sure it was a fox. As I reach the beach I decide to go to the left this time (my viewing rock is to the right)
This is a 2 fold plan, the fox is off to the right somewhere and I have yet to explore the left side yet. As I walk along the sand and rocks I can’t help but think I should have brought my sax with me. I know it’s VERY early and people are sleeping but playing on the beach is something I really enjoy doing. There I stood and watched the waves; exploring the snails and other sea creatures living on the rocks At some point I look back to the hill side behind me. What do you think I see about 10’ from me but that fox. I realize he is following me hoping to find some scrap of food I might have dropped. Sorry Charlie I haven’t had breakfast yet. As I make my way up some stairs back towards the camp spot. The fox gets even bolder. Running almost right up to me, in and out of the woods, jutting back and forth, dropping on to his front paws with his head down looking up at me. I go one way, he goes a few feet the other. Back and forth, back and forth until it dawns on me this is a game to him. He’s very playful, running circles around me. As I move into my camp spot he starts to realize I’m not going to feed him and wanders off. I’m happy to have had the exchange with him and glad I wasn’t eaten by a very dangerous Australian creature.

After eating some fruit and packing up my tent I set out for another days adventures. Since I was near the light house and hadn’t actually seen it. I thought I’d make my way there first. The time was about 8am and the visitor centre wasn’t open yet. Not to worry I’m a fairly independent person and I don’t need a park ranger to tell me the history of a light house. (Many years in New England and the PNW have given me all the light house information I’ll need in life) They did have a 30 minute hike to a viewing point and a old cemetery There are only 7 people buried here. All seem to be from the same family and all passed in the 1890s and early 1900. I would imagine that life was extremely tough in this remote part of the world back then. Life spans for this group only go into the mid 40s.

After that little side trip I left the Otway National Park and soon entered Port Campbell National Park. There really isn’t much difference. Both follow the coast line. Otway’s go from the Cape Otway Lighthouse easterly and include the hill country up to the coastline. Port Campbell starts west of Johanna (another little town) and goes west to encompass the famous 12 Apostles formations and mainly staying nestled close to the coast itself.

I stopped in Lavers Hill Victoria to visit THE store. By capitalizing “THE”, I want to inform you it was the only business. It had a post office, gas station, groceries, restaurant, and gift shop all in one. There is a very nice couple running the shop. The sort of place where the town grandpa has his very own special chair. Where momma comes out from behind the counter to see the babies and tell the little ones how big they’re getting. Where no one is in a hurry and everyone is welcome to stay as long as they want. In all a very sweet comforting place. I poked around a little in the gift shop area before ordering a beef and Guinness pie. Just a little snack to help supplement my fruit breakfast. I sat at a little picnic table out front by the gas pumps that was covered. Beef cooked in beer gravy with a flaky pastry shell. MMMMGOOD! On the side of the house/store a dear lady, I can only assume is grandma, was feeding the local birds and from the look of them, This was a daily occurrence.

I think this was the point I realized I had left my fabulous reclining camping chair at the Blanket bay campground! Now this is very upsetting to me. I LOVE that chair! I had spelt in it out under the stairs at Yellowstone last year. I paid more than it was worth to have it shipped half way around the world and now had no place to sit when I got out of the car. Bummed I decided I’d lose too much time and spend more in gas than the chair was worth going back to get it. Not knowing if it hadn’t been found by someone and claimed already. So I pushed forward resolving to find another along the way someplace.

At this point in time the clouds and drizzle have given way to a constant rain. Making it difficult to want to leave the car or play my sax at some scenic view point. Which were my 2 main objectives for the day. What can you do but get back in the car and drive on hoping for a little clearing in the clouds. I passed the town of Wattle Hill and came into Princeton. The beginning point for the 12 Apostles formations. Even in the rain and wind on a day you would expect more at the Oregon coast over the Australian coast, these sandstone towers are awe inspiring. Think of the constant rolling of the waves, the majestic vista of a long cliffs coastline, with the sandstone colours and smell of ocean air. All of a sudden it doesn’t matter that it’s raining, it’s only about 60, and it’s windy as hell! You just stand there being humbled by the beauty around you. There really are 12, the pile of rubble in the foreground are the remains of 1. The others are hidden by the first few and some extend around the bend. Here there are several short hikes taking you to different vantage points. Since the rain was letting up I took my time and explored what I could.

The next stop along the way was the town of Port Campbell. One of the bigger towns along the coastline, traffic lights, more than 1 store, and as aptly named a port to dock in. I was able to find a new camping chiar at Ray’s Outdoor store. In the back corner there was a clearance stash of items and in it a good chiar with only a slight tear in one arm. $30 ($18 US) later it was mine. Nothing else to really to right home about but it ties you into the national park theme a little more. Just after this oasis of the modern world was another triumph of Mother Nature. A sandstone formation named The Arch followed closely by London Bridge. One of the plaques states that the opening to the left was still in tacked until recently (geologically speaking) and only collapsed into the surf in 1990. I tried to find a place to get down on to the beach but access is restricted. Maybe too many well intending but ignorant hikers have been swept out to sea? Probably a good thing to keep tourist away.

From this point on I started to think about finding a place to spend the night. Since Port Campbell was a much smaller national park there are no campgrounds in it. I thought about getting a motel because of the rain but decided to push on and try to fit in 1 more national park. My thinking was if I headed inland maybe I could avoid another night of thunderstorms and headed north to Mt Eccles National Park. I’m glad I did because this place was not disappointing at all. There’s only 1 campground and since it’s not as picturesque as the coast line there really wasn’t anyone around. I found my self a LARGE 3 tent site spot with a big pile of wood and a fire pit. All of the wood was wet but that can’t stop a well seasoned camper like myself. We laugh in the face of wet wood! I found plenty of dry bark and some small twigs. Throw a little toilet paper in the mix and in no time at all you have a fire! The next step is to try and dry out the large pieces of wood so they’ll be good to burn. I did this and placed them under the table to keep them dry. While the large wood was drying by the fire I set up my tent and continued the hunt for smaller pieces. Everything is better when you have a fire! So there I sat for a couple hours tending my fire and my cup of vodka. Enjoy the peaceful sounds of screeching!! Cockatoos and Magpies. One of my neighbours walked over and informed me that I was a guest in someone else’s home. At first I thought the lady was crazy! What is she talking about??? Then she pointed out the koala way up in a tree. Not a great picture but there he was all quite and comfy. She did let me know he won’t be so quite and still come sunset. So in and effort to make him feel more at home I thought I’d play him a little diddy I learned. Around dusk the koala did get more lively and started to grunt and holler to the others in the area before climbing down the tree and walking off into the night. I spent the rest of the evening enjoying the campfire and vodka. I grilled my dinner in heavy duty Reynolds Aluminium foil I found at the USA store a couple weeks back. Chicken in a satay sauce and steamed veggies. MMM Campfire food is the BEST! Another night in the passenger’s seat. This one was more restful I was very tired from the night before and a couple glasses of vodka always helps your sleep patterns.



In the morning I cooked up some BACON, veggie and egg scramble, with too much cheese and a big glass of milk. Ed and Corina can taste it I know! A little clean up and loading the car. Being careful not to forgot anything this time. Then I’m off for a hike Mt Eccles is a small park with a lake and a mountain about 500’ high! Now remembering that this giant island is mostly a desert and as flat as a pancake, it’s then no wonder why they made this spot a national park. The mountain is to the right of the photo and really the highest point for miles and miles around. The lake is formed of 3 old volcanoes craters. A large crater in the middle and 2 small ones on either end. Something of an oddity in Australia since historically there aren’t a lot of volcanoes.

About 10:30 am I need to start thinking about heading back to town this little trip was quickly coming to an end and the unavoidable work thing was not so far off in the future. One more stop was the coastal town of Portland! I couldn’t come this far and not stop in. So I made the 45 minute drive farther away from Melbourne and went to the place of my last home. I did stop in the information building and picked up a couple little items for xmas gifts. Having 4 hours drive back made me not want to linger long. So I took a shot of the port. Filled up my passenger seat supplies and hit the road.
Glad to have a road trip under my belt and am now planning more of them. I learned a few things. Like I need a saw and axe. I need a better way to run my CPAP and that the kangaroos like to crap in the middle of the trail! You’ll thank me for leaving that story out.

I'd like to give my condolences to the friends and family of Bill Sapios. He passed away on Oct 28th from a heart attack and will be missed by many people. Bill was a person full of life and wisdom beyond his years. I’ve known him for more the 10 years.He was always a helpful, happy and caring person. I’m sorry I couldn’t be there for Roger and Bill’s other friends at this time of sorrow. Good bye Bill. I’ll always value your friendship.

Happy birthday go out to several people this time.
My Nephew Matt in the 12th,
A friend from Israel I met here, Effy on the 13th
My Mom’s is on the 16th along with Jamie Snook
And Corina’s is the 19th I think maybe the 17th?


Until next time friends I hope you are all well!

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